Wander
into J.T. Beedham's butcher's shop
on Mansfield Road in Sherwood and peruse the
range of products on offer: delicacies such
as curry sausages and Hungarian Kolbasz would
give the first clue that this is probably something
a little bit more exotic than your run-of-the-mill
butchers - but then Johnny Pusztai, its owner,
is very far removed indeed from your average
butcher.

Johnny's absolute passion for
the highest quality food and traditional methods
for its preparation is a legacy from his Hungarian
roots. His father, Dezso Pusztai, arrived in
this country in 1956, a refugee from the Hungarian
uprising. Settling in Sherwood, he was amazed
by the choice of meat, fruit and vegetables available
here and soon built a small smoke house to cure
and smoke his own bacons and gammons from which
to make Hungarian salamis. The family would gather
round the table to savour these while discussing
the day's events - a tradition which Johnny continues
to uphold with his own family nowadays. His philosophy
is that the kitchen is firmly at the heart of
the
home (and not the TV!) and that is where
family and friends gather to talk and enjoy delicious
food together. Dezso returned to Hungary shortly
after the fall of the Iron Curtain but sadly
died a few years later, leaving his farm there
to his son, where the family visit regularly
to see relatives and help out.

Johnny's connection
to Beedham's began whilst growing up in Sherwood;
he started out as a Saturday lad taking out the
orders on the old butcher's bike. After leaving
school, he was offered an apprenticeship to train
under George Beedham and Bill Robinson, both
master butchers with over 100 years experience
between them. He also experienced working in
a slaughterhouse and in a supermarket, this second
experience he found 'ghastly' and served to strengthen
even further his commitment to 'real food'. Amazingly,
during this training period, he also found time
to play ice hockey, making centre for the Nottingham
Panthers in 1980-81 (and still coaches for the
University of Nottingham team). When George and
Bill both retired, they were keen for their apprentice
to take over the shop as they felt that Johnny
was the man to continue to run the business to
their exacting high standards and in 1991, he
became the owner though Bill, now long retired,
still continues to work on Tuesday mornings!

It
is clear that Johnny sees the preparation and
cooking of meat as something of an art form;
with twenty-five varieties of sausage on offer
alone, you get the sense that this is a man who
will always go that extra mile to get the details
right. How do you fancy tomato and basil (particularly
good for Sunday brunch I am told) or maybe Robin
Hood venison is more to your taste? And of course
the Hungarian cultural heritage is reflected
in the form of that aforementioned Kolbasz -
a spicy salami-type sausage reminiscent of Chorizo
- containing pork and lashings of paprika; but
the exact recipe is a strictly guarded secret!

All of the meat is locally farmed then
cured and smoked on the premises. The smoker,
which looks like half a garden shed attached
to a wall, is in the yard at the back of the
shop. Once cured, steeped to rid it of the excess
salt and then dried, the meat (not just bacon
but also chicken, duck, mutton and sausages)
is smoked over oak chippings for 24 hours. Lit
on Fridays, the delicious smell then wafts over
Sherwood to tempt the weekend shoppers!

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